Understanding Koh Mook
Koh Mook (sometimes spelled Ko Muk), is Thai for ‘Pearl Island.’ This small island on the Andaman Sea side of Thailand is about 15 minutes away from the mainland province of Trang. Its biggest claim to fame is Emerald Cave, which is often visited on day trips from nearby, more popular, tourist islands. This island is so much more than just the cave though. Koh Mook is perfect for those off-the-beaten-track, island adventures that you always dreamed of. Here you can not only visit the cave with a hidden sinkhole beach inside, but hike through jungles to access an idyllic cliff-surrounded beach, kayak around the entire island in a day, or go island hopping to nearby islands.
While tourism is the island’s sole industry, Koh Mook remains largely untouched by the masses of tourists that crowd many of Thailand’s more popular islands. It is a great place to escape to if you want to discover a piece of what Thailand was like back in the day before McDonalds and 7-Elevens crowded every corner. If you are that person who is complaining that Thailand is too touristy, then Koh Mook is for you. If you like parties and a variety of organized activities, then stick to better known Ao Nang or Koh Phi Phi.
Trash disposal is a major problem on Koh Mook. Trang’s chapter of Trash Hero (a program that organizes volunteers to go out and clean up trash) visits the island once a month, but it is clear that one day of volunteer work isn’t enough to clean up an entire month’s worth of trash. When you visit, please be mindful not to contribute to the problem. Consider bringing a trash bag to the beach and cleaning up a bagful.
Getting There
Koh Mook is an island, and thus is only accessible by boat. Boats can be arranged from Trang on the mainland, or from nearby tourist areas such as Koh Lipe, Ao Nang, or Koh Lanta.
In any of these areas, it is easy to find a tourist office and simply inform them that you wish to go to Koh Mook. They will be able to book your boat tickets and arrange your transfer. Once on Koh Mook, transfer onwards can be booked through most accommodations.
I took the high speed boat from Koh Lipe to Koh Mook for 1,133 baht. Leaving, I took a slower ferry from Koh Mook to Koh Lanta for 600 baht.
Smaller speed boats arrive and depart from Charlie Beach on the island’s southwest coast. Larger ferries arrive and depart from the pier on the east coast.
Getting Around
Samlors, (which means “three wheels” in Thai) are basically another form of tuk tuk. Due to the island being small and not having many roads, you can go anywhere you want to for 50 baht. When you arrive fresh off the boat, the guys waiting for your business on Charlie Beach may try to charge 60 baht since you don’t know the price of everything yet.
Being a small island, there is no official shop for renting motorbikes. Ask around though, most shop owners and places of accommodation have an extra bicycle or motorbike sitting around to rent out. Motorbikes cost as little as 200 baht per day. They are all rusty and look like they will fall apart at any moment, but you’re really only driving four relatively flat, empty roads, so whatever is available will suffice.
The island is also very walkable.
Top 7 Things to Do
If you are like me, and like to scope out your beaches on Google Maps satellite images before visiting a place, then you have likely already found the peninsula of sand that juts off the east coast of Koh Mook. This is Sivalai Beach, and yes, it is every bit as picturesque as you could possibly imagine.
Charlie Beach used to belong to a 5* resort, but due to complications with permissions from the national park, they were forced to demolish. If you are thinking it’s weird to go hang out in the ruins of an old resort, then think again. The entire, small, tourist population shows up to watch the sun set, and it feels like a big, carefree camping trip. Coconuts can be purchased for 40 baht, which was the cheapest I found on any of the islands.
If you want a view of the majority of the island, then you won’t want to miss the only real trail on the island. You may need a local to show you which road turns into the trail. Do wear good walking shoes, not flip flops. The hike up to the summit is just over an hour, and not for the faint of heart. At the top, the local resident has a small shop set up with refreshments and even instant noodles. If he isn’t home, he leaves a box and price list out, so it doesn’t hurt to bring some small bills with you.
Sabai is one of those epic, quintessential, Thai beaches surrounded by cliffs on all sides. Most people arrive by a longtail boat, which can be hired at Charlie Beach. A few arrive via kayak. And even fewer arrive by hiking in. The hike is a continuation down from the Jungle Viewpoint mentioned previously. Be warned, the trail is not well traveled, and the jungle is thick enough to get lost at points. I wouldn’t attempt it alone.
Kayaks are available for rent all along Charlie Beach. Singles, doubles, and triples are available, by the hour, the half day, and the full day. A full day on a triple costs 500 baht. Kayaking around the island takes about seven or eight hours with stops.
Charlie Beach is also full of longtail captains during the day, offering tours to the surrounding islands. There are enough islands within very close proximity to Koh Mook, that these tours offer really good bang for your buck. You rent out the entire boat, and then can split the cost between however many friends you have. Our boat was 5,600 split between seven people. We visited three different snorkeling spots, two islands, each of which we were given an hour to wander around, and Emerald Cave at the end.
Emerald Cave is one of those astounding feats of nature that takes your breath away and leaves your jaw agape. First you swim for 10 minutes through a pitch black cave. Then you emerge into a giant sinkhole. half is beach, half is jungle, like an entire hidden world. The cliffs surrounding you on all sides are a good 80 meters tall. The only way in or out is via the cave. This is, without a doubt, the number one, can’t-miss activity on Koh Mook. You have the option to either hire a longtail captain, or to rent a kayak. The longtail will have to stop outside, and you will swim through the cave. Kayaks, on the other hand, are allowed to paddle through. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the cave from Charlie Beach. The cave is only accessible during low tide.
Where to Eat
This cliffside restaurant on Charlie Beach has the view and no steep prices to go along with it. Most of the food on the island is decently average. The islands in general usually don’t tout the epic cuisine that Thailand is known for. That said, treat yourself to the best view for the best price here. (View on Google Maps.)
This is the number one rated restaurant on TripAdvisor for Koh Mook, and it is usually crowded enough to show for it. I highly recommend the coconut soup. The pad thai was lacking. (View on Google Maps.)
This small, hilltop restaurant will give you a true feel for the quiet island that Koh Mook is. (View on Google Maps.)
Kookkai is the name of the lady who runs these newly built, glass-front bungalows, and she is a phenomenal cook as well. Consider ordering two meals though, because the portions are sometimes lacking. (View on Google Maps.)
Where to Drink
Charlie Beach
There is no nightlife on the island, but around sunset, the entire tourist population migrates over to the ruins of the old Charlie Resort for sunset. To meet the demands of the thirsty, locals arrive with their fold-up tables and coolers full of alcohol to sell. It all has a wonderfully informal and spontaneous vibe to it.
Where to Sleep
Disclaimer: I only stayed at one of these this time around: Bamboo Hut Bungalow in the budget category. I did spend a good amount of time wandering around the entire island though, and a few places stood out above the rest if I had to choose a place in each category to stay at next time.
Budget (300-400 baht per night)
The budget accommodation on Koh Mook consists of little huts made entirely out of bamboo, and one hostel. Don’t expect to find hot showers. The smallest and cheapest of the bamboo huts are great for one person, but I believe that two people would feel cramped quickly (we’re talking about a bamboo room that is big enough for one full-sized mattress). I booked mine online at the cleverly named, Bamboo Hut Bungalow for 360 baht per night. After arriving, I noticed that the Road to Charlie Beach has numerous bamboo huts scattered along for 300 baht per night. Many of these are not available online, so you are at the mercy of shopping once you show up. I highly recommend Bamboo Hut Bungalow due to the lovely owners, how well the huts are taken care of, and the fact that they have internet and free water refills. Their bungalows also offer electricity and private bathrooms. I do not know if the other options for 300 baht can say the same.
Koh Mook Hostel is located at the south end of Walking Street. Hostelworld.com rates it 8.9, which is pretty good for a basic island hostel with no other competition. Prices were 300 baht per night.
Mid-Range (1,200-1,560 baht per night)
Mountain View Resort stood out to me the most for the nicest looking mid-range accommodation. It is located at the halfway point of the Road to Charlie Beach, and consists of some nicer, wooden bungalows scattered along the hillside. Standard and deluxe bungalows are available, which include a fridge and hot shower.
Luxury (7,000 – 9,000 baht per night during peak season)
Did you ever dream of vacationing not just on the perfect beach, but on your very own peninsula? If you are going to go all out on Koh Mook, then there is only one place to do it, and that is at Sivalai Beach Resort. That’s right, the resort that that beautiful stretch of sand is named after that you see on the map.
This is your quintessential beach island resort, with your own private bungalows, beautiful glass windows steps away from the ocean, the beach to end all beaches, and all the other luxuries such as spas and pools to complete the picture.
Tips for Visiting Koh Mook:
→This is a quiet, basic, undeveloped island. If you are looking to party and have an endless variety of activities, then stick to Ao Nang and Koh Phi Phi. If you are looking for a slice of forgotten paradise, away from the tourist crowds, then Koh Mook is your spot.
→Most accommodation does offer Wifi, and connecting to a cellular signal is not an issue.
→There are currently two ATMs on Koh Mook. The first is on the Walking Street, the second is opposite Mook Lamai Resort and Spa. Both will (reportedly) disperse up to 30,000 baht per day for a 220 baht charge.
→High season is November to April. Weather is the mildest, the seas are calmest, and prices are highest. Many places may not actually be open during low season.
→There are a couple small convenience shops on the main walking street, where you will be able to find snacks and necessities such as sunscreen. Prices will be steeper than on the mainland. Don’t expect to find anything fancy.
→Trash is a major issue on the island. Please be mindful not to contribute to the problem. Carry a travel fork and reusable straw with you to avoid having to use disposables. If you visit Sabai Beach, consider bringing a trash bag with you to clean up some plastic. If you ask nicely, a longtail boat captain might even be willing to transport it to the trash boat for you.
→There is a clinic in the village which can treat any minor injuries. Anything serious will require a trip to Trang on the mainland.
→Koh Mook is very safe. I hired a samlor my first night there to get back to my bungalow from Charlie Beach, since I wasn’t sure yet if I should be walking alone at night. I never felt unsafe as I learned my way around the island though. Do carry a flashlight at night. Electricity is limited, and there are no street lights.
Any questions about Koh Mook? Have a suggestion for other travelers? Please leave a comment below!
